For both Don Post and Rubies helmets, the velcro in front was always a curiosity to me. If I tilted the dome so that the installed velcro pieces met and attached, the tilt angle was wrong. It also was not in agreement with the configuration of the internal mounting because it then wouldn't sit flush.

e.g.

DP DLX original unmodified mount (forehead velcro attached in first pic, tube mount sitting flush in second pic):




Rubies Supreme mount (with forehead velcro attached):


I'm currently using high density foam pads covered with industrial strength velcro to secure the front with better results.

My question is: for production and screen used helmets, how was the velcro installed in front? I suspect they used a spacer as well, or the cast (or the velcro) was much thicker.

Well, the original helmets had the Velcro on the brow above the eyes. Even though the Velcro placement is similar to the originals, the reason why it doesn't work on the Don Post and Rubies helmets is because their dome mounts on the face mask are way too high, making the dome rise up in the back giving that odd look to the whole thing.

Guys what can I do to improve the sitting of the dome of my Rubies Supreme helmet? Any suggestion? Cut out the mount and replace with...?

I have seen some threads for Rubies Supreme modification. Those I came across do involve cutting or trimming the mount. To achieve the absolutely accurate tilt angle and height separation, I do think some cutting would be required.

You can improve the faceplate-to-dome fitting without cutting, though it will not be 100% screen accurate. In terms of what is screen accurate, an oldie but goodie discussion about ESB dome fitting is at http://www.therpf.com/f79/vader-esb-dome-correct-display-16564/.

Spurned into action by your question, I set out to modify the mount fitting of my Rubies Supreme.

Here's the inside view. The Rubies Supreme actually improves upon the Rubies Limited Edition Fiberglass by tilting and tapering the facemask connector:



The connection is loose which does allow for variation but no built-in way to stabilize it (unless you press the forehead to the inside dome velcro which we know doesn't look right).

Here's what mine looks like without modification as it flops into position. This wonkyness makes the Tie fighter Vader look good.

I did find that I could achieve a "good enough" look within the existing mount setup. How to make that setting semi-permanent was the question.

I wanted to implement a modification that was:

1) Reversible (I could revert to the original state if desired; i.e. no cutting)
2) Stable (no flopping around)
3) Reasonably accurate

After setting the faceplate-to-dome how it looked good to me, I would need a way to fill in the empty spaces between the mount connections so that it "set" the configuration.

I decided to try what I had readily available: InstaMorph

Instamorph is a reusable moldable plastic that is moldable and clear after soaking in hot water (140 to 150 degrees Fahrenheit) for a few minutes and hardens and turns white as it cools to room temperature.

It will stick to some plastics such as ABS, so I was sure to test with a flat piece to be sure it would not stick to the helmet. It didn't.

So I start with a blob of hot instamorph:



After trying a few times to make a nice pretty shape, the best approach I found out was just to smear it along the top outer edges of the faceplate's mount with overhang at the edges and then press the faceplate into the dome slowly and without back-and-forth motion until I had the desired look in place. Then stop, hold it in place for a few minutes as the instamorph cooled and solidified.

Here's what I ended up with after I pulled the facemask away from the dome:



As ugly as this looks, it actually works pretty well.

The instamorph piece stays in place on the faceplate mount on its own. The slight overhang along the sides and inside the lip of the back edge makes it stay in place. It isn't stuck to the surface of the helmet like glue. It's essentially clamped in place.



The space filled by the instamorph fills the gaps and locks in the desired faceplate-to-dome tilt angle and height separation:

The mount fit is stable as the helmet is tilted:

Comparison shot between DP DLX and Rubies Supreme