If you have a headset, or if you have a microphone and speaker, you can do VOIP phonecalls for free. http://www.skype.com

I can call people's landline using it for 2.4 cents per minute.

If you are up for a conversation, let me know. I can call your landline (PM a phone number) or if you want to download SKype and run it, we can do a PC-to-PC call.

Now I need to share these two shots with you all. This is a direction I've now abandoned.

PC-7 was initially a joy to apply becuase it was like PC-11 but I could use water to keep it from sticking to my latex gloves. Unfortunately it's not curing and bonding, and when flexed too much it broke off of the PC-11.

The PC-11 remains "one" with the fiberglass resin.

A note on dome flange lengthening, again I have not touched the bottom rim to add length.

What you're about to see, may scare you!





It's hard to see because of all the black (so gray primer, here we come) but bringing the forward and side rims down a bit helps somewhat.

However, the danger that the flange was angled to go wide already. Adding all that putty would make it look like it was curving inwards the last minute.

The PC-7 has pretty much been all removed as of this morning. I'm going to more closely approximate the DP DLX. I'll keep you apprised of that.

pm sent let me know if you got it.

Okay, I'm going to step back into the shop. Prior to today, the skull of the dome looked like this. Yeah, I know, it looks like a road accident. The upper left piece originally broke off and I glued it together with PC-7. In fact, there is PC-7 on the underside, which I may have to sand down. I now wish I discovered AquaMend before PC-7 because part of the inside of the facemask is now covered in PC-7 and would be difficult to remove (hmm, maybe it's cured after all).

There are primarily 3 holes you are looking at here. A middle one and two side ones. These represent the three prongs of the GA mounting system. Now the GA is based on the DP CA which was "T" shaped, so GA possibly owns a recast with the "T reworked into some funky tripod.

Anyways, that's all got to go.

This morning, I went to check and was delighted to see that the AquaMend had hardened and was very receptable to sanding. The bond appears quite strong.

More later.

Yeah got it. Hang up and I'll call ya.

The black primer against the white resin is making the kit look hideous. I'm sure there is a good Vader in there somewhere.

CS i take my hat off to you dude you're certainly not afraid to get stuck into something
If that had turned up on my doorstep it would have been back in the post that same day
I dont like to rubbish people but the seller should be ashamed of themselves for even sending that out

To answer your question about the GH - it does not have dome tabs. Also, the original helmet had a 1" spacer in the dome, where the tabs were attached and plugged into the tabs on the face-mask. Not a very good mounting system, which is why it was improved upon in the following films, with actual mounting rings.

Basically... you can make whatever type of mounting system you like to make the dome sit securely on the face mask and not budge. Some use the original dome mounting systems, while others re-do them completely - check out the Celtic Touch and BAT helmet for complete re-works of those... I'll see if I can find some pictures and post here.

In a recent thread on the RPF, someone had used a skater helmet, iirc, and fixed that on top of the face-mask - which would also support the dome at the back, so it don't get pulled back and strain the face and dome system. I plan to do something remotely similar to my JediJeffrey face, when I'm going to add a dome mount system, as I want it to be able to support the lot heavier DP DLX copy dome I have without straining and ultimately breaking the face.

Though... I'd have to say that the Celtic Touch is the most ingenious way of redoing the mounting system I have ever seen and it is one of my all-time favorite helmets.



With the adding of small rubber bracer's on the brow, sides and the back, you have all-round support of the dome, as it rests on the face and perfect angle and position every time.

The surface of the kit looks decent enough, but I still think the insides was enough for me to run screaming for the door, when seeing it. Oh man... that was really bad looking - a nightmare, imo. Seems you got it worked out though!

Good luck

Thanks, but what are those three dome tabs? They look like 3 solid little band-aids.

Also, I actually have considered doing a full skullcap like the Celtic Touch.

They are velcro tabs presumably from an old Apple II computer or possibly from a car or another appliance - the original source has not completely been identified, but I believe the original company of those tabs is called 3F. The taps are two-part - one with little sticks on them and a round tip and the other is filled with holes in which the sticks with tips go into and is thus held together. Though, the tips tend to break... which is why regular velcro is used more nowadays than these plastic tabs.

That's weird, that looks like one of my old helmets that I used to make.
Infact I just retired the mold about 6 months ago,
I could have sold you the mold for a lot less and you could have made as many as you want

So I wake up this morning and decide to check up on "Goldie." Now Goldie has received his AquaMend applications in parts. The reason why is that it sags under its own weight. Also, the tripod prongs I had sawed off left large areas, so this could only be done incrementally.



Here is a first shot of Goldie saying "Hi" to me this morning. Now even though it has a 20 min. curing time, even after 20 minutes it didn't sand well. I waited overnight and that achieved the magic I wanted. It sanded nicely. So as you look at this photo, the top and the upper right of the skull look sanded down. The newer application on the left has not been sanded so his skull may look a little funky.

Okay, so how's the inside look?



As you can see, more unnecessary FG has been ripped out. Oops, I made a hole. No problem, AquaMend can take care of that. And it sands beautifully once cured overnight.

The top part of the skull shows a nice spread of AquaMend. I'm right now debating whether I want to line the inside with AquaMend or PC-11. As you know, PC-11 is a paste, rather than a putty, so it's going to cover larger surface areas a lot easier. I didn't have any last night so I stopped here. At any rate, a very thin foam liner would cover this once I'm done.



And here's another shot of last night's cleanup. Some of this couldn not be done with a handsander so I used a Dremel.

The dark stuff is PC-7. I can't seem to pry it out but that goes to show that in thin layers it will cure more easily. However, I prefer the texture of PC-11 after it sands, much more than I like PC-7.

Hey at least now it doesn't look like you'd need stitches after trying it on. Looking good.