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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 12:47 am 
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Do you have any thoughts as to what you will now do with the top of the mask?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 12:49 am 
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Is it worth saving?

So the big question is if you're able to see the end result from the beginning. There is undoubtedly a lot of problems. So now let's look at the outside for a moment.

Image

Here is a comparison with my Don Post Deluxe 188/1000. As you can see, it's slightly smaller, so once again if anyone has ever done a DP CA and a DP DLX side-by-side comparsion can tell me if they are of identical size, please let me know. There are just slightly enough discrepancies that cause me to wonder if the Don Post Classic Action really came from the same mold as the Don Post Deluxe.

Image

Now this photo was taken when I had nearly completely restored the skull using PC-7 only to find the material easily broke off, and subsequent applications didn't even adhere to itself. It's possible that it never cured properly due to the cold temperatures and that sitting in sunlight all day doesn't make up for it's minimum curing temperature requirements.

I've also sawed out two of the holes. I used a narrow Dremel bit. Now T-VIRUS is asking me why I'm punishing myself, as if I ate the world's last peanut butter. But honestly this chalky resin is a joy to work with compared with Rubie's plastic. And it doesn't gunk up your tools.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 12:50 am 
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T-VIRUS wrote:
Do you have any thoughts as to what you will now do with the top of the mask?


You'll see. I will post a photo tomorrow. I need NoHumorMan's help in photographing the underside of a GH helmet to better understand how those three round flat capsule-shaped tabs actually provide a means of dome mounting.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 12:58 am 
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Thats cool...its funny cause I've always wondered that myself ( about the three tabs. )


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 1:02 am 
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So let's see what I'm up against.

Again, I'm using black primer to help me pre-visualize. I'm not fishing for flaws at this time.

Image

Somehow my gut tells me the skullcap of the dome is a bit on the big side. But the problem I have with the dome's flange is that it's wide and it creates a tremendous space.

Image

Here is a side view.

As you may be able to see, I think I have a problem with the shape of the dome.

The dome's skullcap looks small, and the flange looks short. Darth isn't Doris Day. So let's take a look at a comparison shot (or "comp") between an original DLX and this GA DP CA recast.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 1:03 am 
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T-VIRUS wrote:
Thats cool...its funny cause I've always wondered that myself ( about the three tabs. )


Maybe it has something to do with the 3 Sea Shells in "Demolition Man"! :lol


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 1:05 am 
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I almost said that but couldn't figure out how to work it in. :lol


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 1:06 am 
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Now in the last photograph you saw that the dome wouldn't cover the back of the neck much. We'll have to see what our options are and why this is so.

Image

Hookay. So it turns out that from front corner to corner, the GA is wider. The skullcap actually not only appears to be the right size but has the same slight deformation to the front left (over the eyebrow) as the Don Post (left).

I am very confused.

Image

Even more curious (and may a DP CA owner please speak up) is the shape of the skullcap. Notice on the GA's head seems to buldge towards the top back, and the back of head seems to be more tapered. This might be an optical illusion given the shortness of the flange.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 1:07 am 
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In regards to the dome...what if you try lowering it a bit?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 1:17 am 
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Yes, the flange needs to be lowered or extended, but I wanted to try a different route first. Again some people immediately go and try to add an inch or more to the flange and they essentially create a disproportionate dome and make the facemask look tiny. Heck, this is Darth Vader, not Dark Helmet, hehe!

But seriously, I wanted to take a different approach. I am a proponent of dome repositioning. Now if the dome is actually large enough, merely repositioning can do wonders, as you can see in my Rubie's thread where I didn't have to add length and yet achieved an idealized dome positioning.

In this case, I studied the rim of the dome and realized it was too short, so I went this route:

Image

This white stuff is called PC-11, and more information is available in my review at:

http://www.aokforums.com/thepropden/the ... ut432.html

In short, it has an hour-long cure time so you can only add a little at a time before it sags under its own weight. It is extremely sticky as a paste as well as when semi-solid. However, do not touch it with your bare hands because I'm not sure how it will come off of your skin. I used latex gloves.

Image

Now notice that I'm just adhering the PC-11 to the dome. I'm not reconditioning the surfaces much as they are already rough. But it gets everywhere, unfortunately.

You will recall that I had said the GA dome was wider than the DLX. My goal was to use PC-11 to build structure successfully. If I could do that, then I could theoretically line the inside of the helmet with PC-11 to thicken it, and then use a sander to reduce the outside width, thereby making the dome narrower.

You think I'm crazy, right? :lol


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 1:23 am 
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Now here's where my head's at.

My head. Not Vader's!

Image

The idea is that if you have a bit of length on the front, it gives you more slack so when you angle the dome back, the rim will still cover the eyes sufficiently. While you can bring the rim down a bit more, you can only go so far with the flange sides before they conceal the eyes and obstruct Vader's view of things.

It's very hard to position the dome and photograph at the same time but this is the best I can do under the circumstances.

Here, I've added PC-7 to the PC-11 application but I ended up ripping all the PC-7 out today (you can tell I don't like PC-7 any more). There is still a lot of slack for repositioning so I have options. The facemask here is not properly positioned, but if you imagine the PC-7 as a very, very crude placeholder, I've already covered the back of the neck considerably without adding back length to the flange.

I will, however, need to add flange length regardless because it's shorter than the original DLX.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 1:25 am 
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Crazy....I didn't say you were crazy. :rolleyes Who have you been talking to? :lol


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 1:29 am 
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So here are some progress shots.

Again, the PC-7 is history.

Image

Image

The immedately preceding shot is what I call the "hero" shot in that iconic look-up-into-the-stars angle going, "Luke, come with me." You can see that the back of the neck is sufficiently covered.

However the front corners need lowering.

Image

"And, hello, I am Wellington the Fisherman. And this is my milk moustache!"


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 1:30 am 
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T-VIRUS wrote:
Crazy....I didn't say you were crazy. :rolleyes Who have you been talking to? :lol


Uh, dude, NHM went to bed an hour ago. You're the only person I'm talking to right now! Hey, do you do Skype? Up for a chat?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 1:33 am 
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What is this skype of which you speak?


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