Send me a PM. This is still a work in progress. I basically know what I want to do, but I had to go back a few steps. By increasing the height of the cheek lines, I have to re-establish the surfaces all over again. The subtle curves you saw prior are gone because of this, but they are on my "to do" list.

PM sent!

PM?

No PM!

LOL... I'm getting old... I meant e-mail.

Ah. I replied.

Ah... so you did... replied back.

Oh crap... this is getting silly... I'll stop now. Carry on!

No, not silly at all. Good suggestions, but I was already headed in the direction you were thinking.

What you see is the pre-sanded state of a modification. I have to add padding and then sand it down.

Here are a few more shots of this morning's progress. It will look like I'm ignoring NoHumorMan, but I actually have a method to my madness! (in working on Casper, not in ignoring NHM!)

I'm going to try something slightly different with the cheeks.



You'll notice here that I've actually reworked the whisker so that there is a structural difference between the mouth wall and the cheek face (where it merges into the nose). Because of some excessive removal of material on my part, it's difficult to see, but there is actually a very nice round contour at the nose.

Okay, this picture shows it better.



The next step is to adjust the thickness of the mouth wall. Sigh... more work....

The second before last shot showed that I hadn't built out the skull. There is more length at the neck than there is at the top of the head. So this is my remedy.



This kind of brought me back to the days when I was building out the skullcap of the Golden Armor kit. The main difference now is that this is entirely scratch-built!

I can only add so much at a time since this stuff sags under its own weight. I add only enough for it to stay up by itself. It cures within about an hour, I think. Then I can leave the house. Again, I have to wait a full 24 hours so that it's in the best condition to be sanded where it won't gunk up the sandpaper.

I'm not sure I had shown this or discussed this, but here is the interior with a lot of clay soaked out of it. There is a residual left. As I had done so, it exposed areas where my current epoxy clay material was too thin. In some cases, I had sanded through the epoxy clay right into the water-based air-drying clay, so when the water-based clay dissolved, it left cracks and holes that I had to patch up. Ah well, that's life!

I've not yet determined what kind of mounting system will go here, so for the moment I'll stick with a baldified skull.

That's it for now....

Pretty awesome pics Mac....still can't believe the way it looked when you started compared to now.

Here's another shot. It's coming along....

It's now gotten to the point where when I look at the Don Post Deluxe recast mask kit from Portumac, the DLX recast feels sloppy. However, a great paint job will make or break a kit. I'll get to this DLX later. Casper is far more exciting. It feels more precise even though it's still in a crude state.

My suggestion was more for the refinement stage, which you are not at yet.

Also... don't make a sharp corner/edge where the cheek meets the nose, as you've done - that is inaccurate and only occur in fan-helmets.