As I mentioned before, Rob suggested on the FISD to not use the original holes. Related to the gap between the facemask and the cap and back I think a minority of the movie helmets(stunt)
had that gap, but just a minority. I took borrowed two pics from Jez website that prove this.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.p ... opic=17520


I probably will assemble my helmet this weekend so I will ignore the original holes ;)

Cheers

A

do you mean the browless trooper lids ?

Well some gap is normal. Most helmets have a slight one I think. But most of the time not as severe as what we are talking about.

That's a good question.

Why shouldn't you use the original holes if the original helmet lined up without any gaps?

Well that is the question. It doesnt make a lick of sense and now I've got two holes in my helmet that though original, dont seem to work. Just a very strange problem.

One thing I could imagine is that when the heated stretched material starts cooling it retracts if it isn't supported. This helmet is HUGE compared to what I've experienced before with the AP and the TE HDPE helmet, but it seems long in the face and not as wide - which is why I'm suggesting that it retracted on the horizontal plane, while keeping the shape in the vertical plane. At least that's my observation. The 4 mm extra further back on either side from the original rivet holes isn't so much that it detracts from the look, but seeing as the original sits flush with the brow when using those holes would suggest something is happening with some of the face pieces when cooling, no?

I don't believe the TE, AP or other helmets have the impressions of the original rivet holes, so it will make it more difficult to ascertain whether the issue is universal to those as well and simply an artifact of the vac-forming in general.

Paul, I agree with you 100%. This is a question more suitable for Rob and Simon. In theory if you want to assemble any RS helmet and match the original helmet you should make holes where the impression of the original ones are. Obviously this is not working for anyone.

So the options are to make new holes or try to get an answer from Simon himself. I also wanted to point that only three marks impression from the original rivet holes are vissible on the face mask.

Cheers

A

Yeah, I mocked up my RS Helmet and found that the gap was there when I lined up the original holes too.

I took the plunge of doing the hole a additional tad bit further back on one side when I'd disassembled the helmet anyway when filing the eyes to ESB spec. Looking better.

Here it is next to my TE RotJ fiberglass helmet.

It is looking very nice Carsten. I really like the way you trimmed the eyes

Cheers

A

Thanks man. Gonna do the ears sometime next week, so I can get it fully assembled. Will probably give it a little paint during that week as well.

Seeing as I'm going ESB, I should probably try and find some ESB style decals. Are these the ones to get? http://trooperbay.com/te-derived-esb-st ... et-decals/

Looks beautiful Carsten


Ben

Can't way to see more of you progress, looking sharp!
Related to the decals I probably would go in a completely different direction. Mike decals are good but the best decals I have seen so far and are spot on are made by Naroid who is member here(The only thing is I am not sure if sell those decal sets he makes himself); this link may convince you

3-vt3523.html?start=30

Cheers

A

Very cool Carsten. Looks like it coming together pretty good. I have no info on the Naroid decals, other than what I've seen in his threads. They do look pretty fantastic. I have perchased several sets over a period of time from Trooperbay however, and have always been real happy with the look and quality.