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PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 9:50 am 
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Joined: Sat Sep 09, 2006 11:53 am
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TE 1 is what's known as the bumpy cap as you all know.

The TE 2 has had all the bumps removed and that's basically it, that the only difference - apparently when TE first started selling his first version he received a lot of complaints.
I had a TE 1 in my possession only recently and I have to say it really is a ugly (but accurate helmet) the one thing that always made me curious about the TE 1 is the fact you can see the remnants of what looks like pant peel on the surface - it's really apparent on this version.

The weird thing is that TE always maintained that his moulds came from the
INSIDE of the original HDPE he once owned...


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 10:10 am 
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There's a few big changes in the second TE armour - first of the shoulder bells have the accurate widening at the bottom - the forearms are different from each other and have an extra indentation , biceps are different to each other for left and right as are the thighs and legs.

Anson

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:50 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 04, 2007 12:47 am
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I have had the chance to chat with the new owner of the of the TE molds.
I asked him if it was possible to get the helmet with the smooth cap and he told me that he is keeping the bumpy cup in all the helmets he produces because it is the way it was the real one. So he is not offering smooth version. can anybody confirm that ?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 9:53 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 17, 2006 5:03 pm
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Location: Canaduh!
AnsonJames wrote:

The weird thing is that TE always maintained that his moulds came from the
INSIDE of the original HDPE he once owned...


Huh??!! That doesn't make sense!


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 10:24 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 7:37 pm
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Location: Orlando, FL
It does make sense. When you copy mold a vacformed piece you have to pour a cast into the inside of the part you are copying to keep the generation sizes as close to the same as possible. If you were to mold the outside of the helmet in this case, the resulting helmets made from the mold would be noticeable larger than the original.

Think about when something is vacformed, the buck (mold) is inside the final product, and the faceplate, or cap or whatever has to be removed from over top of the buck. It would stand to reason that TE would have fully disassembled and then molded the inside of the original helmet to get bucks that were the same size as the originals used for the helmets.

I hope that clears things up a bit.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 1:11 am 
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Still not sure if that makes sense....taking a mold of the inside would lose all the exterior details.....no? Especially on the bumpy cap helmets...all the paint drips, bumps, etc....


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 4:36 am 
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Location: San Jose, CA
KevVader wrote:
Still not sure if that makes sense....taking a mold of the inside would lose all the exterior details.....no? Especially on the bumpy cap helmets...all the paint drips, bumps, etc....


I don't think that in vacuum forming the plastic sheet is going to pick up that much detail. The detail you see depends on how much the plastic sheet is able to bend and wrap around the template's shapes and structures. Its own thickness will govern how it will appear; the thicker the plastic the less detail there will be on the outside, and conversely the thinner the plastic the sharper the detail.

Assuming that the plastic sheet is completely accurate in its forming, there is a good chance the underside's negative shape is very close to the object's positive shape. By virtue of the thickness and nature of the material, you may end up losing some sharpness of detail.

But if you cast the inside of an already formed helmet, there is a chance for you to make up for the lacking detail by working on the newly cast inside.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 7:56 am 
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Joined: Sat Sep 30, 2006 8:06 pm
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Location: Vancouver
KevVader wrote:
Still not sure if that makes sense....taking a mold of the inside would lose all the exterior details.....no? Especially on the bumpy cap helmets...all the paint drips, bumps, etc....


Well the thing is that the bumps on the screen used "bumpy cap helmets" are (mostly) not paint drips and external bumps. They are a result of bumps on the original mold buck itself, pushing up into the piece of plastic being formed, resulting in the bumpy texture of the final helmet. So if you were to look at the inside of a screen used helmet you would see all these little divots that are the back sides of each and every bump on the outside of the helmet.

So if you were to make a mold of the inside of the helmet pieces (as TE did for the helmet in question) you would end up with a mold buck that has all the bumps on them. When you form a piece of plastic over this buck, the end result is a pretty much identical piece of plastic as the original, bumps and all.

I hope that clears things up a little.

Later,

MJC.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 1:03 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 7:37 pm
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Location: Orlando, FL
Exactly what the Dude said.


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